![]() ![]() Here, you need to think like a studio photographer. Note that some flashes only tilt, and this is not ideal, as it will prevent you from bouncing flash off to the side. Step 1: Pick the right flashįirst, you will need a hot shoe flashgun, one that allows you to both tilt and swivel the head. Now that you’re familiar with the value of bounce flash, I’ll take you through the simple, step-by-step bouncing process. And as you hopefully saw (and I emphasize below), it’s actually quite easy to do. Nice, right? That’s the power of bounce flash. But by tilting the flash off to the left so that it bounces off the wall, you get improved three-dimensionality, soft light, and flattering shadows: ![]() The overhead light, while softer, keeps the model’s face looking relatively flat. The light is much softer, and you can see that the shadow on the woman’s neck is softer: Here is another, closer (direct flash) shot, which clearly emphasizes the hard shadow in the neck area and the flat lighting:Ĭompare the image above to the one below, which was shot with the flash tilted upward toward the ceiling. This first image uses direct flash:Īs you can see, the image looks very much like a snapshot, with hard, unpleasant shadows and plenty of overexposed and underexposed details. Below, I share a few examples to show you the benefits of bounce flash. Instead of pointing the flash directly at your subject and firing away, you simply angle it upward or to the side, let the light bounce off the wall, and – voila! – you get a beautiful result.Ĭonfused? Don’t be. ![]() In portrait studios, you’ll often find lights mounted to stands at various angles – but again, when shooting events, this often isn’t feasible.Įnter bounce flash, which allows you to create soft, flattering light and an angled lighting effect while using a single flash mounted to your camera.
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